Mark IV Volquartsen Accurizing Kit

I figured out that the SEAR SPRING in the new Mark IV is QUITE the BEAST compared to a Mark 1,2 or 3 sear spring. It is heavier gauge wire, old springs were about .022" new are about .028". The springs are a much different shape also. This all translates into the FACT that the pull from one of these kits will NOT be a sweet as a Mark 1, 2 or 3 installation.
Heavy sear tension translates into heavier pull weight.

NOT liking this I chose to experiment using the old style spring. I will not elaborate a whole lot but the spring leg (long leg) needs to be bent outward to not pass through the interior gap in the frame. It ALSO needs to be bent back to get proper position of rested sear with no tension. The spring will do no good at all without modification, NEVER mess with the coil of the spring.

The pictures of the Silver frame show FACTORY TENSION of a rested sear spring. It's best to never tweak the sear spring tension but if you must,, NEVER get the square edge of the sear PAST the hammer pin hole,,, YOU WILL HAVE ISSUES!

THIS IS WHAT "I" DO ON "MY" EQUIPMENT modify "your" equipment on your own liability
I am in no way saying you should do this











RUGER MARK SERIES
Trigger Work
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(eventually when I get done) EVERYTHING you could possibly want to know,,,,
If I'm missing anything, have something wrong
or you would like to see additional information,,
LET ME KNOW
Just click here or email LEE@LMEXCAVATING.COM
Or call 812-853-5007
Still Working on this page
But have some info up,,
Ruger has used pretty much the same Lock Work (trigger stuff) from the
beginning, BUT there are some differences outlined below (when I get to it)
AS WELL as some techniques to make them Lighter and Crisper
Click on image to enlarge
If Tandemkross makes a video on it and does NOT credit their source just remember where it came from originally. I hate sleezbag tactics like that, but anyway on to the information.
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